"Martin X. Moleski, SJ" <moleski@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
news:SKKdnQ0Y5YFgvXzVnZ2dnUVZ_tninZ2d@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> On Mon, 29 Sep 2008 11:57:14 -0500, Random Excess
> <tejas_pedro@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in
> <lu12e4p2n4cp6qns0junil5i74knbv4lqd@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>:
>
>>On Thu, 25 Sep 2008 14:41:33 GMT, "Jim" <jim@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote:
>
>>>I agree. "back in the day" I built ONE Sterling kit and vowed to never
go
>>>near them again. They were just horrible!
>
>> Horrible by today's standards (or not), the Ringmaster (and probalby
>>the Ringmaster Jr.) was built and successfully flown by the thousands.
>
> That was the end of my CL career.
>
> Not because it was a bad kit (it wasn't), but
> because I couldn't get it painted the way I
> wanted to.
>
> I didn't understand that you need a base layer
> with dope. I probably put a dozen layers of
> navy blue on my Ringmaster and it still looked
> horrible.
>
> (sigh)
>
> Marty
--------------
I had the same problem with balsa finishes myself, Marty. Back then, my
answer was to use lots and lots of balsa sealer (clear dope and tal***
powder), which led to a smooth, but very heavy and somewhat fragile
finish.
Little did I know that all I had to do after fine sanding the dickens out
of
the piece, was to lay down a layer of tissue (modeling) over the surface
and
clear dope it. I'm sure you've known this for quite a while too by now,
but
for those out there trying dope and experiencing the issues that Marty and
I
are referring to (open grain showing through the paint), it works
miracles.
You can get a glass-like finish in no time using a simple layer of tissue.
Ed Cregger
|
