3for3 wrote:
> Hello,
> My three year old Seamaster ARF has the side walls separating from the
> bottom hull. I want to use .75oz cloth with 30 min epoxy thinned with
> alcohol to cover the bottom and bring the glass up the sides approx one
inch
> for strength and water proofing.
>
> What works best when making the transition from the monocoat sides to
the
> glassed bottom. The monocoat under or on top of the glass? I plan on
> painting the glassed area.
>
> thanks,
> rcs
>
>
If you put the Monocoat under the glass you'll be able to peel the glass
off the hull as if it were Monocoat, but you won't be able to peel the
Monocoat off at all.
I'd do the glass, then Monocoat over that.
Note:
Glassing over the bottom would be the right action to take to correct
for a design defect. It's a design change, and will have ramifications
beyond a simple repair -- not least of which it'll add weight.
Are you sure that the fault isn't just workman****p, that can be
corrected by redoing the original glue joint?
Another note:
I wouldn't thin the epoxy. If glue is too think, use epoxy laminating
resin.
Do a web search on vacuum bagging (but don't come crying to me if you
crush your hull!). Resins glue stuff together well, but don't add much
strength beyond that contributed by having it all glued together. You
want the cloth saturated, but with as little resin as possible -- that's
what you get with vacuum bagging.
--
Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
http://www.wescottdesign.com
Do you need to implement control loops in software?
"Applied Control Theory for Embedded Systems" gives you just what it says.
See details at http://www.wescottdesign.com/actfes/actfes.html
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