Crest Hill, Illinois wrote:
> "Wolf Kirchmeir" <wolfkir@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
> news:484d9ac1$0$29844$9a6e19ea@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> Crest Hill, Illinois wrote:
>>> My dad wants me to add a windmill to my layout. It would look like the
>>> one pictured at this website.
>>>
http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.west-norfolk.gov.uk/images/bircham%2520windmill%252007.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.west-norfolk.gov.uk/Default.aspx%3Fpage%3D21783%26theme%3Dprint&h=1693&w=1194&sz=486&hl=en&start=3&tbnid=owCCY7n-EceIWM:&tbnh=150&tbnw=106&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dwindmill%26gbv%3D2%26hl%3Den%26client%3Dfirefox-a%26rls%3Dorg.mozilla:en-US:official%26sa%3DG
>>>
>>> My main problem is how to do the bricks in a round structure and make
it
>>> look good.
>>
>> Use brick paper. Spray with artist's fixative or clear lacquer/varnish,
>> then use acrylic craft paint washes for weathering. One source is
>> Papercreek:
>>
>> http://www.papercreek.com/
>>
>> Happy hunting!
>>
>> --
>> wolf k.
>>
> The problem I see with the brick paper is the taper of the windmill. The
> only reason I am even attempting is because a sister in law has an
ancestral
> windmill in Holland and she wants a model.....
>
>
Two ways to handle it:
a) the quick'n'dirty way: just cut the taper half on each side of the
seam, and put the seam on the back of the model. Butt joint, not overlap.
b) the close to prototype way: cut the brick paper into strips one, two,
or three bricks high, and cut to fit. Make a kind of stair-step joint at
the seam, ie, have short bricks there. That is how it's done with real
bricks - they are cut to fit as the circle gets smaller. The bricklayer
will also widen the mortar line for a dozen or or so bricks as he closes
the gap, in order to avoid cutting a brick.
You could of course get really obsessive, cut thousands of little
bricks, and glue them on one at a time.... ;-)
HTH
--
wolf k.
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